Washington Wine Trip

I've written about Washington wine before, but this week I had the opportunity to explore the state's wine further with an exhaustive trip through the many AVAs. Washington wine is at an exciting stage right now, as ambitious winemakers and grape-growers match varieties with the best sites. I came into Washington hoping to discover which grape variety expresses the state, but left convinced that Washington, like the greatest regions of France, is best understood through the distinctive terroirs of each AVA. This makes understanding Washington wine complicated, but it's well worth it as this is a fascinating and very varied wine region.

ignore Puget Sound: most of Washington's grapes are grown in Columbia Valley

the climate

Over 99% of Washington's wine is produced in Columbia Valley, a large, all-encompassing AVA in arid eastern Washington. In the growing season, the days are hot and long - Washington receives 8 days more sunshine a year than California - but the nights are cold with temperatures falling as low as 10 degrees. This wide diurnal variation prolongs the growing season, allowing the grapes to ripen fully while retaining high acidity. This acidity is a defining characteristic of both whites and reds, giving the wines a vibrancy not always present in warm regions.

the soils

the basalt soils beneath Seven Hills Vineyard in Walla Walla. Some soils are so deep and rocky that wells dig 400m down before finding water.

Washington is a geologist's paradise, with a huge amount of different soils within vineyards let alone across the state. 13,000 years ago, the Missoula floods swept across eastern Washington depositing a variety of soils that otherwise wouldn't be there. At high altitudes, the original volcanic soils still remain. Changing from site to site, these soils are the reason that Washington has such a varied terroir. Furthermore, these difficult soils, combined with very low winter temperatures (winter freeze is a problem), mean that Washington remains phylloxera-free, all the vines planted on their own roots.

the grapes

In the 1990s, Merlot was the state's signature grape variety but fashion has seen it overtaken by Cabernet Sauvignon. I feel Washington's greatest wines are from Syrah, a variety which for some reason is a difficult sell throughout the USA. I was also extremely impressed with the Malbecs I tasted: like Mendoza, the diurnal temperature variation allows the grape to ripen slowly and fully, bringing out all its phenolic qualities. Whatever the variety, Washington's reds share an aromatic florality, ripe red and black fruits, firm tannins, and high acidity. There's an Old World-New World overlap in the wines: fruit forward, but delicate, and with an enlivening acidity.

the many grapes planted in Red Willow vineyard over the years

The whites are less consistent. Riesling used to be the most planted grape because its natural high acidity suits the climate, but it rarely demonstrates sufficient complexity. It's been surpassed by Chardonnay, which for some time producers were making in imitation of big, oaky California examples. Chardonnay is beginning to be planted on more suitable, high altitude sites, leading to more restrained wines with better acidity, but I don't think it best represents the terroir of Washington. Sauvignon Blanc perhaps does this most successfully, with a full body, floral aromas, and a dry, mineral finish, while Viognier, which is often flabby in warm regions, retains sufficient acidity alongside its characteristic floral and stone fruit aromas.

the AVAs

For a region that is little known outside the state, Washington has an excessive number of AVAs (13). Even more confusingly, three of them spread into Oregon and a "fourteenth," The Rocks District, is entirely within Oregon. However, having visited many of the AVAs, it's clear that each one has its own distinct identity. It may take some time and a great deal of consumer education, but Washington is best understood by breaking it down into its different areas rather than by grape variety.

Walla Walla Valley

Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla

Perhaps Washington's best known AVA due to an impressive marketing campaign, Walla Walla is in actual fact quite small, with just over 500ha planted even though the AVA stretches into Oregon. The best vineyard is Seven Hills, which takes in several small, windswept hills at the southern end of the valley. It receives 300mm of rain annually and growers have had to drill a well over 300m deep to find 10,000-year-old water to irrigate the site.

Stand-out wine: L'Ecole No. 41 Estate Perigee 2012 ($49) ✪✪✪✪✪
A Bordeaux blend with beautiful ripe, perfumed fruits, and herbal, menthol, bitter chocolate, and mocha aromas. The tannins are firm but integrated, giving the wine great structure.

The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater

a typical rocky vineyard in The Rocks District

This new AVA is entirely in Oregon, but within the Washington Walla Walla AVA. This is extremely confusing, but makes some kind of sense. The soils of Washington do not stop at the political boundary and it will need continued co-operation between the Washington and Oregon wine boards to spread knowledge of the region's different wines. The name of the AVA is clumsy but again makes sense: the soils are extremely rocky (unlike the rest of Walla Walla). The Syrahs here are particularly interesting: floral, perfumed, almost hedonistic, yet with restrained fruits.

Stand-out wine: Delmas 2012 (92.5% Syrah, 7.5% Viognier) $65 ✪✪✪✪✪✪
From the driving force behind the creation of The Rocks District AVA, this Syrah/Viognier blend has a dark, intense complexity, with coffee, truffles, dark chocolate, and liquorice, all lightened with floral and herbal aromas of lavender, myrrh, ginger, and orange peel. Also worth mentioning are Proper's Estate Syrah ($42) from both 2012 and 2013 (both ✪✪✪✪✪) and Balboa's 2012 Malbec ($34; ✪✪✪✪✪).

Horse Heaven Hills

Horse Heaven Hills, overlooking the Columbia river and Oregon

A high, undulating plateau taking in over 4,000ha of vines, Horse Heaven Hills includes one of Washington's greatest vineyards, Champoux. This vast AVA (it covers a total of 228,000ha) is windswept and bleak, reminding me of the Yorkshire moors without the rain. 24 different black grape varieties are planted, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot dominate.

Stand-out wine: Andrew Will Sorella 2009 ($85) ✪✪✪✪✪✪✪
One of the US's great red wines, the Sorella is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, varying with each vintage. This is a prime expression of the Champoux vineyard, first planted in 1972. As with Washington's best wines, the Sorella has firm, drying tannins which give the wine a gripping mouthfeel, lifted by a vibrant acidity. The fruits are soft and ripe, yet delicate, elegant, and restrained. This is a serious wine with long ageing potential. A year and a half ago, I visited the Andrew Will winery on Vashon Island near Seattle, which is one of the most memorable experiences I have ever had.

Red Mountain

steep Viognier vines at the top of Red Mountain

The smallest AVA is where the Washington story began, with Jim Holmes and John Williams planting vines in 1972. Jim Holmes claims they didn't know what they were doing, but there may be some false modesty at play. The small mountain, so barren it had never been planted with any crop before, has a varied, rugged topography that results in outstanding Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. This is the AVA that may push Washington on to the international map: Duckhorn of Napa have recently planted here, and Aquilani of Canada have bought over 250 of the AVA's potential 1,600ha.

Stand-out wine: Force Majeure Estate Syrah ($65) ✪✪✪✪✪✪
A rich, lush nose of red and black fruits, with a peppery spiciness, but floral, perfumed, and balanced - a typical Red Mountain combination.

 

Yakima Valley

Syrah vines leading up to Red Willow's chapel

The biggest AVA besides Columbia Valley, the quality and style of Yakima wine fluctuates. Its best and most historic vineyard is Red Willow, first planted by the Sawyer farming family in the early 1970s. Once again Cabernet and Syrah excel - the Syrah grown on the steep south-facing slope below the chapel looks and tastes French.

Stand-out wine: Owen Roe Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($72) ✪✪✪✪✪✪
From the original 1973 plantings on the Red Willow vineyard, this is another perfumed Cabernet, with cedar, oak, pencil lead, cocoa, chocolate, and black tea. Gripping tannins and a full mouthfeel belie a long, subtle finish. 

Columbia Gorge

With just over 150ha, Columbia Gorge is the most unusual of Washington's AVAs. It again extends into Oregon and its wine culture is closer to Portland than Seattle. Rainfall varies from 250 to 1,700mm, depending on location - like the other AVAs, topography, climate, and soils vary remarkably. Due to the cooler, wetter climate, white grapes dominate, particularly Gewürztraminer, Riesling, and Chardonnay.

Stand-out wine: Savage Grace Chardonnay 2013 ($26) ✪✪✪✪✪✪
From Celilo vineyard, which is considered the finest in the AVA. On a mountainside with volcanic soils, the climate is maritime, receiving up to 1,250mm of rain each year. This cool, wet climate results in light, acidic wines such as this Chardonnay from up-and-coming winemaker Michael Savage. This wine stands comparison with the best Chablis: citrus, mineral aromas, with light cream and baking apples on the palate, with a crisp acidity.

Columbia Valley

Many wineries source grapes from individual vineyards all over the state, which will be labelled Columbia Valley. It's difficult to generalise about these wines, which will vary according to site, blend, variety, and the winemaker.

Stand-out wine: Avennia Justine Red Rhône Blend 2012 ($40) ✪✪✪✪✪✪
Although Syrah emerged as my favourite Washington grape, a handful of winemakers are also making wine from other Rhône varieties. Maryhill of Columbia Gorge make an excellent Mourvèdre ($45; ✪✪✪✪✪✪), demonstrating how exciting that grape can be in the right hands. The Justine from Avennia is 49% Mourvèdre, 28% Grenache, and 23% Syrah. Dark, earthy, and floral, this is voluptuous, immediate, and powerful: Washington wine in a nutshell.

Bonfires Green: Napa in Bloom

Driving around the Napa and Sonoma Valleys in this balmy March, I've been noticing the different stages of the vines as they slowly begin to enter the growing season. As we have barely had a winter - a day or two of rain here and there and the nights get chilly - some of the vines are still autumnal, unpruned, with flowers wildly growing among them. Others were pruned some time ago and already they are beginning to flower. It's fascinating seeing the differences at this time of the year, down to a winemaker's or grape-grower's choices, the fertility of the soil, exposure to the sun, age of the vines, and the trellising system.

This vineyard is right on the edge of the Napa city itself, where the vines are already beginning to blossom. Even though Napa is cooler than the rest of the valley, there's more direct exposure to the sun in these flat vineyards and the nights don't get as cold or foggy.

Slightly further up the Silverado Trail, Black Stallion's vines are well into the flowering process. These vines are probably Chardonnay, which is beginning to flower across Napa and Sonoma.

The next two vineyards are right next to each other on the Silverado Trail, yet in a completely different state. One is pruned and already beginning to show flowers, while the other is unpruned with wild cover crop, looking like it's in total disarray. Minimal pruning such as this originated in Australia, where it's widely practised. In warm climates, it increases yields without affecting quality. I don't know if this vineyard is deliberately following the Australian practice, or if it's simply because they've been waiting all winter for winter to actually happen. A month ago I visited Kelly Fleming Wines in Calistoga, where they hadn't pruned the vines yet. The reason was simple: they were waiting for it to rain before pruning, otherwise there was a chance any rain would spread fungal diseases in the vines. It still hasn't rained since.

At nearby Baldacci Family Vineyards in Stag's Leap, the vineyard workers were busy pruning the Cabernet Sauvignon vines, with still a bit of work to do. Here, the vines have been kept tidy with two canes left growing on the vine before being completely pruned this weekend. Winter pruning keeps the vine healthy, but also reduces vigour. Baldacci have likely been trying to keep a balance between healthy and vigorous vines over the dry, warm winter.

In Oakville, two of Napa's most prestigious and expensive wineries are taking similar but different approaches to tending their vines. Groth are letting the grass grow long between vines, which have been minimally pruned but then tidied by hand. Those at Plumpjack have the same trellis system and long grass between the rows, but the vines have been fully pruned.

At nearby Saddleback, the carefully pruned Pinot Blanc vines are just beginning to blossom.

Besides the thick older vines above, there are lots of plantings of young vines around Napa. They're stick thin, carefully trained and pruned to aid their development. Mustard flowers grow in between their vines, which has been a characteristic sight over the last two months.




Back towards Sonoma in the Carneros AVA, the Chardonnay vines are really beginning to bloom - what D. H. Lawrence called the "the bonfires green" of spring. Back in England, spring was one of my favourite seasons, when the bleakness of winter passes and the land livens up in colour. Here it's different, because the winter's as warm as an English summer, but seeing the vines come to life is still beautiful and invigorating, making me look forward to seeing the vines progress over the summer months.

Côte de Nuits

Following on from my tastings of Pinot Noir from around the world, I attended a session organised by Vins de Bourgogne to learn more about the famous appellations of the Côte de Nuits. Stretching from south of Dijon to the village of Nuits-St-George, the Côte de Nuits is a series of vineyards on east-facing slopes where some of the world's greatest Pinot Noir is grown. The session concentrated on the three villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, and Chambolle-Musigny, which lie less than 10km apart yet have very different flavour profiles. Considering their proximity to one another, the differences between the wines from these villages was extraordinary.

the vintage

All the wines came from the 2011 vintage, whose wines were described as fresh, fruity, supple, and lighter than usual but well balanced. In true French style, the weather conditions for 2011 were related to us in some detail: the growing season started early in a dry, sunny spring; conditions changed "dramatically" in July, however, to a cool, wet summer; the end of August reverted to a sunny September with low rainfall. The lightness of the vintage means that the wines generally may not have the ageability of consistently warmer years such as 2012, but the wines we tasted were still young.

the villages

During the nineteenth century at the height of Burgundy's fame, many of the area's small villages took on the name of their most acclaimed vineyards: Gevrey became Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey Morey-St-Denis, and Chambolle Chambolle-Musigny. Generally, the best vineyards - Premier Cru and, for the very greatest, Grand Cru - are on slopes above the villages. These vineyards are called climats, individual sites which have their own particular style, character, and identity. Lower down the slopes are the village appellation wines, the more straightforward expressions of each area. Distinctive but less acclaimed vineyards that go towards village appellation wine also have their own name: lieux-dits.

Gevrey-Chambertin

There are 320ha of vineyards in the village AC, making it one of the largest for red wine in Burgundy. Beyond this broad area, there are some of the most renowned vineyards in the world: 26 Premier Cru (80ha) and 9 Grand Cru. The Premier Cru vineyards are, unusually, higher - at 380m altitude - than the Grand Cru, which are around 300m. The best wines from the village are full, structured, tannic, and long-lived.

Morey-St-Denis

Situated between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, the wines of Morey-St-Denis combine the best characteristics of the two: the powerful structure of the former and the aromatic elegance of the latter. Much smaller than Gevrey-Chambertin, there are just 87ha of Pinot Noir, 35ha of which is Premier Cru. Despite its size, there are still four Grand Cru vineyards, including Clos-St-Denis and its most renowned, Clos-du-Tart.

Chambolle-Musigny

Larger than Morey-St-Denis with 152ha (56 of them Premier Cru), there are two Grand Cru vineyards - Les Bonnes-Mares and Musigny. The former adjoins Morey-St-Denis's Clos-du-Tart and the wines have more structure, depth, and intensity. Musigny, one of Burgundy's greatest vineyards, is more aromatic, the character for which Chambolle-Musigny is known. There are also two Premier Cru vineyards which rank as some of the finest of Burgundy: Les Charmes and Les Amoureuses. Next to and very similar to Musigny, we heard Véronique Drouhin describe the latter's wines as like "wearing a cashmere sweater."

the wines

We tasted two wines from each village: a village appellation wine and a Premier Cru wine.

Jean-Claude Boisset Chambolle-Musigny Les Chardannes 2011

I found this wine somewhat bitter: the wine did not undergo any racking which may have contributed to a slightly reductive nose. Despite this, there's a nice floral character and the relatively high amount of new oak (45%) is well integrated. With soft tannins, this is a balanced, lightly fruity wine but lacking intensity of flavour. ✪✪✪✪

Domaine Frédéric Magnien Les Bourniques Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2011

A very perfumed nose, with wild strawberries and redcurrants, and a very subtly integrated amount of new oak (50%). On the gentle palate, the fruits are ripe but very subtle, with light tannins. Despite the wine's soft, fine texture, there is real depth held up by very good acidity. Best drunk 2020 onwards. ✪✪✪✪✪

Domaine des Beaumont Morey-St-Denis 2011

Despite having the second least amount of new oak (30%) of any of the wines we tasted, it felt the most noticeable perhaps because the oak had a higher level of toast. The fruits are bigger, denser, riper, and darker than its Chambolle-Musigny equivalent. Likewise on the palate, the tannins are more noticeable, firmer and more gripping. This is a complex, involved, if slightly rustic wine. ✪✪✪✪✪

Joseph Drouhin Clos Sobré Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru 2011

The nose of this wine is immediate and beautiful, with ripe red fruits and blackcurrants, roses and thorns, and oak and vanilla. The Drouhin style is not too much extraction, and despite the ripeness of the fruits this wine is balanced and elegant. Lightly gripping tannins on the palate, with dried fruits - figs and prunes - as well as raspberries and blackcurrants. There's a discreet use of new oak (20%) with smoke and light pepper spices. The acidity, however, is a bit sharp at this stage. ✪✪✪✪✪

Domaine Harmand-Geoffrey Vielles Vignes Gevrey-Chambertin 2011

An incredibly intense nose, with oak, smoke, earth, dirt, dried roses, blackberries and brambles, and raspberries - the fruits are hiding behind the oak (40% new). On the palate, the fruits are black and ripe, as are the tannins. A dense, interesting, though slightly heavy wine. ✪✪✪✪

Domaine Taupenot-Merme Bel Air Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2011

An odd nose that felt a bit grassy and cereal at first, giving way to baked fruits (plums) and oak. The tannins on the palate are gripping and dominant. A big, full mouthfeel that's hard to assess right now - the wine needs another ten years. ✪✪✪✪✪

conclusions

Reading or hearing about the differences between the three villages is one thing; tasting them another. The wines from Chambolle-Musigny were clearly more aromatic and delicate; those of Gevrey-Chambertin more powerful and forceful; the style of Morey-St-Denis lay in between. For that reason, Morey-St-Denis won the day for me - pleasingly elegant but with depth and structure.

Details of my ✪ to ✪✪✪✪✪✪✪ scoring system

Pinot Noir Around the World

For a grape that's notoriously difficult to grow, Pinot Noir is produced in most major wine-producing countries. Although it's at its best in cool or moderate regions, Pinot Noir can be found in Spain, Portugal, South Africa, and Australia, to name just a few warmer climates. The most famous classical regions for the grape are Burgundy and Champagne, but it's also found in other European cool areas such as Alsace, Germany, and even England. Elsewhere in the world, Oregon and Central Otago are the most strongly associated with Pinot Noir but other areas are producing exceptional Pinot Noir, such as Yarra Yarra and Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia, and Santa Barbara and Sonoma in California. Styles vary according to climate and winemaker's preferences, making Pinot Noir a harder grape to pin down than its reputation suggests.

I recently attended a tasting of Pinot Noir wines at Back Room Wines, which was followed by a blind tasting with my Diploma Study Group. Here are the areas I tasted wines from.

Burgundy, France

With its moderate climate, Burgundy is the northernmost limit for the production of quality red wine in Europe. (Pinot Noir is also important for the production of Champagne, which is further north but does not make red wine.) Some of the most famous and expensive red wines come from the Côte de Nuits, a series of villages including Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, and Vosne-Romanée. The wines are expensive because making red wine here is seriously difficult, because it's made in small quantities, and because there are people out there willing to spend too much money on wine.

Marsannay

Marsannay is the furthest north village in the Côte de Nuits, producing, uniquely for Burgundy, rosé from Pinot Noir. It also produces light, fruity, and attractive red wines, which can be extremely good value given the village's lack of fame.

Charles Audoin Les Longeroires 2011 ($38)

This wine didn't feel that light - there's a dark undertone to Burgundy's wines which can surprise. The wine had a nice, involved complexity, although it lacked subtlety: smoky raspberries, with black liquorice and a meaty, bacon nose, and a good, round mouthfeel. Substantial but slightly out of balance. ✪✪✪✪

Vosne-Romanée

Home to one of the most exclusive wineries in the world, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and six Grand Cru vineyards, wines from Vosne-Romanée are regarded as some of, if not, the finest Pinot Noir in the world.

Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée Clos de la Fontaine 1995

This was quite a treat, brought along to our blind tasting by a member of my Diploma Study Group. The garnet colour immediately gave its age away, followed by extremely mature aromas on the nose of game, mushrooms, leather, earth, and dirt, with dried strawberries and cherries. The acidity on the palate was remarkably fresh, with pepper and liquorice spices still tingly, even if the primary red fruit aromas had faded. An outstanding wine come to the end of its life - so a great time to be able to taste it. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

The northernmost part of Italy is one of its most interesting. North of Lake Garda is Trentino-Alto Adige; the latter is mainly German-speaking, while Trentino is Italian. Many of the best wines come from high-altitude vineyards. Both Alto Adige and Trentino have a high proportion of DOC wines - 70% of Trentino's wines are labelled DOC.

Istituto Agrario di San Michele all'Adige Trentino Pinot Nero 2011 ($33)

This interesting, slightly unpredictable wine comes from an agricultural and vinicultural college. A nice smoky, fruity nose, with raspberries and red cherries. The tannins on the palate are quite firm, with a good, full, spicy mouthfeel. The wine is pleasingly rustic and just about in balance, with the fruits at the beginning and end of the mouthfeel and the acidity and tannins in the middle. ✪✪✪✪

Central Otago, New Zealand

The most southerly vineyards in the world are grown in New Zealand's only continental climate where daily and seasonal temperature variation add to the intensity of the wines. 75% of Central Otago's vines are Pinot Noir, which was only first planted in the 1980s. In such a short period, the area has gained quite a reputation for fruity, lush, deep-flavoured Pinot Noir.

Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2010 ($31)

A fruity, perfumed, upfront nose that's also gamey and meaty, even a bit stinky. On the palate, there is very good acidity, but the tannins dissipate too quickly. ✪✪✪

Casablanca, Chile

Chile's climate is generally warm, but at altitude and under the influence of the Humboldt Current from the Atlantic Ocean there is the potential for white grapes and cooler climate black grapes. Morning fog is a particularly cooling influence in the Casablanca Valley, the only area of Chile where more white grapes are planted than black.

Kingston Estate Alazan Pinot Noir 2011 ($33)

On ungrafted roots and granite hillside slopes, this was an interesting if rather big Pinot. The nose was fruity, meaty, and rather obvious, but the palate was more integrated and subtle, with pleasing acidity and gripping tannins. ✪✪✪

Oregon, USA

The history of winemaking in Oregon is recent. When David Lett of Eyrie Vineyards moved to Oregon in 1965 to pursue his dream of making Burgundy-style wines, he was told by his university professors at UC Davis that it was impossible to grow grapes there. Fifteen years later, it was his 1975 Pinot Noir that brought the world's attention to the state's wines. Now Pinot Noir dominates production to the extent that it accounts for over 60% of plantings, mostly in cool, damp Willamette Valley south of Portland.

J. Christopher Lumière Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2012 ($41)

The shallow, rocky, volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in Willamette Valley result in small berries and concentrated wines. Cooling ocean breezes also prolong the growing season. From one of Oregon's leading producers, this wine has beautiful red fruits on the nose, with a subtle but enticing earthiness and smokiness. On the palate, the tannins are grainy and involved, with subtle spices and some meatiness. ✪✪✪✪✪

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012 ($32)

Adelsheim are one of my favourite Oregon producers, but I was a bit disappointed with this wine, finding it too upfront and warm. Ripe strawberries and raspberries dominate, with a creamy, chocolate element, given some depth with pepper and liquorice. Just too fruity, with the oak not sufficiently integrated. ✪✪✪

Santa Barbara, USA

A semi-tropical climate two hours north of Los Angeles may not seem the best place to make Pinot Noir, but that's what Santa Barbara and its surrounding AVAs have been doing since its emergence in the 1980s. The Pacific Ocean has a cooling influence, bringing fog into the hills. Santa Rita Hills is the coolest AVA in California; here, wind can be a problem and the best sites are those that are sheltered.

Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir 2013 ($22)

The entry-level Pinot from Santa Barbara's most famous winery, this is a good-value wine with a nice, if not particularly deep, character. A quite oaky nose at first, with smoke, toast, vanilla, and cloves, is given some grace with cherry blossoms and strawberry and raspberry aromas. Likewise on the palate, with extra flavours of cola, pepper, and liquorice. ✪✪✪✪

Fiddlehead Fiddlestix - 728 Santa Rita Hills 2010 ($38)

A very inviting wine, with ripe, round strawberries. Full-bodied for a Pinot Noir, its ripe red fruit flavours, oak, and tannins are nevertheless well-balanced and integrated. ✪✪✪✪

One thing in common all these Pinots had was price: it's very hard to get a quality Pinot Noir for less than $30. There are other shared characteristics, such as red fruits and a certain meatiness. However, there was a great variety of styles showing one of the reasons why Pinot Noir is so popular with producers - it reflects terroir, expressing the nature of the land, climate, and winemaker. From light and subtle to full and fruity, there are many faces to Pinot Noir.

This is my first blog to feature ratings using my new ✪ to ✪✪✪✪✪✪✪ system, explained here.