The Millennials

I missed out on being a millennial. Born between 1980 and 1995, the generation came of age as the twenty-first century thrust us into a loose, chaotic world connected by new technologies. I'm old enough to have only discovered email when I went to university, but for the next generation email was an integral part of their schooling. Indeed, it's such an old technology now that it's taken for granted, superceded by social media and smartphones. I'm suspicious of lumping an entire generation under one heading, but this technological upbringing does distinguish millennials, who have grown up in a global, fast-paced, often insecure environment.

They're also a generation with disposable income, even if that income is based on debt or parents' money. Marketing teams, keen to hook young consumers, increasingly focus their attention on this generation of spenders. (Which reminds me of one of my favourite scenes from A Hard Day's Night, when a fashion mogul tries to predict the next trend while dismissing George Harrison as a troublemaker.) I just attended a hospitality symposium (yes, such things do exist) here in the Napa Valley, and one of the seminars was on the millennial generation. It provoked some interesting discussion, and brought home just how different the world is now from when I was growing up in the 1980s.

Generation Me

For the cynically minded, this dismissive description may seem more accurate than the millennial term. Millennials are often demeaned as narcissistic with a sense of entitlement and a short-attention span - what they want, they want right now, and no one will stop them getting it. But this is a generation with the world at their fingertips: knowledge is a click away, a friend the other side of the world is within instant communication. There's also a desire for information; the internet, especially sites such as wikipedia, make that information easily accessible. It may mean that millennials lack the patience to search for knowledge that's difficult to attain, but they're constantly looking to learn something new.

For any retailers, whether in the wine industry or another, millennials' attention has to be caught straightaway or it's lost. They are constantly looking for new experiences, and the internet has a mine of information on those new experiences. Social media and review sites such as yelp and tripadvisor are trusted as friends. This is little different from previous generations who learnt about new experiences through word of mouth, it's just that instead of sharing those experiences with a few friends, they're now shared with potentially millions of people.

Wineries looking to capture millennials' money (and there are 79 million of them in the US alone) need to offer unique experiences. A tasting room is no longer enough; the wine experience needs to be immersive and interactive, which is why more wineries offer food and wine pairings or live music. Wineries must also be on social media, part of the conversation that their consumers are having online. Developments such as the selfie - perhaps the single most ludicrous thing to emerge in the twenty-first century - need to be embraced: all those photos being shared on instagram make consumers brand ambassadors - they'll even pay to promote a winery if they like it enough. No business can afford to be static and expect the consumer simply to come to them because of the quality of the product.

They Travel in Packs

At the tasting room in Sonoma I previously worked at, limousines and buses full of twenty-somethings visiting from San Francisco regularly pulled up. These groups of ten to twenty people wanted to taste good wine, but what they really cared about was being together and sharing the experience with each other. Going out as a couple or with a small group of friends is no longer enough; there needs to be at least ten in the group to validate the experience. This provides a lot of challenges, as dealing with a large, often drunk, group with a short-attention span taking selfies while doing cartwheels to reveal knickerless nether regions is not what I got into the wine business for. But somehow these groups need to be catered for, with interactive experiences that will hold their attention. And there is an end result: provide these groups with the experience they're looking for and they will spend money.

Social Media

So much has changed in the last twenty years that it's possible to forget that we once existed without wikipedia, facebook, or email. Frustratingly, some wineries still refuse to admit that these technologies are a vital part of everyday life. For all the focus on millennials, any business needs to acknowledge that almost everyone from grandmothers to toddlers uses a smartphone. Be on facebook, twitter, instagram, pinterest; have a hashtag or @handle that consumers can easily find and use; contribute to yelp and tripadvisor and don't avoid them for fear of the bad review; put contact details at the top of a web page so they will load first when a potential customer is searching with a bad network; get customers' emails in order to contact them with news of upcoming events. This may seem obvious, but it's amazing how many wineries do none or little of this. Whether you're a millennial or remember the Second World War, we're all part of a fluid online conversation.

Conclusion

If you've made it this far, you're probably not a millennial - but you need to be reaching out to them, the latest generation of drinkers. 

Spain: A Destination You Never Reach

regions tasted

Spain has always been one of my favourite countries for wine, food, and its general appreciation of life. William Gaddis, the American postmodernist novelist, once wrote that, "Spain is a destination you never reach," an observation I've always liked. A country whose full character is impossible to grasp completely, Spain is edgily placed between the slow-paced, conservative, Catholic past and the fast-paced, outgoing, urban present. This is true of its wines too; the oxidative wines of sherry and Rioja must still taste much like they did in the nineteenth century and other regions and producers adhere to winemaking traditions of the past. At the same time, coinciding with the transition to democracy after Franco, Spanish wine has been transformed in the last thirty years, with modern, clean, crisp whites emerging from Rueda, Rías Baixas, and elsewhere and even conservative regions such as Rioja producing fruity, oaky reds that appeal to contemporary drinkers.

Over the last couple of months, my wife and I have been indulging in a series of Spanish wines to refresh our appreciation of the varied styles of wines being made in the world's third biggest wine-producing country. Here's what we've been drinking and have learnt about Spain.

regions & wines 

Arabako Txakolina

Txakoli (translated into Spanish as Chacolí) is a light, acidic white wine produced in the Basque country; it's often slightly fizzy, especially when poured from a height from the long, thin-necked bottle. There are three DOs, one of which is Arabako Txakolina. It's tiny, just 50ha, lying off the wet Atlantic coast and receiving 1,500mm of rain a year. The cool summers make grape-growing even more difficult but local growers are determined to preserve the historic tradition of txakoli. The Arzabro Txakolina winery is new, established in 2009, run by a local farming family based in the area for generations. Their txakoli ($19) is made from Hondarribi Zuri, which accounts for 85% of the grapes grown for txakoli production, and Izpiriotza Txikia (which is Petit Manseng across the French border). The wine's very zesty and acidic, with pronounced lemon and lime aromas: a good summer aperitif. ✪✪✪✪

Rioja

Part of Rioja lies within the Basque country, but on the other side of the Cantabrian mountains where it's drier (500mm of rain) and warmer. Rioja is the most famous of Spain's wine regions and is known for its red wines, but white wine is made too. Traditionally, the whites are oxidative, oaky, and mature, but an increasing number of modern wines are made, usually from the Viura grape (called Macabeo elsewhere in Spain) alongside a form of Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca, and Tempranillo Blanca. The Acodo Blanco 2010 ($30) from Basilio Izquierdo is a nice combination of old and new: it's five years old but still has fresh green and citrus fruits; it hasn't seen any oak ageing but has been left on its lees for eight months, giving it a nutty, yeasty character traditionally associated with white Rioja. ✪✪✪✪

Rioja is traditionally a blend of vineyards from different parts of the region and of different grape varieties - which is why this blend of the four major black grape varieties interested me. 75% of the grapes planted in Rioja are Tempranillo, which produces wines of red fruits and firm tannins. Garnacha is grown in the warmer Rioja Baja, and adds alcohol and red fruit, liquorice aromas. Mazuelo (Carineña eleswhere in Spain and Carignan in France) gives black fruits and tannins, while Graciano, plantings of which have increased since its lowpoint in the 1970s, has attractive floral, perfumed aromas. The Colección Vivanco 4 Varietales 2010 ($70) from Dinastía Vivanco - which is not just a winery but also a museum and educational centre - combines all these fruity, perfumed elements with a powerful structure from its sixteen months in French oak. ✪✪✪✪✪

Priorat

Inland from Barcelona in Catalunya, Priorat had all but been abandoned by the 1980s although wine has been made there since the 12th century. It's hilly with very steep slopes and stony slate soils (called llicorella), all of which makes growing vines there incredibly difficult. A group of winemakers took on the challenge of making wine there in the late 1980s which led to a revolution in quality, and now some of Spain's most exciting red (and white) wines are made in Priorat. Garnacha and Carineña, with small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah, produce intense, concentrated high-alcohol wines. Planetes de Nin is the project of young female dreadlocked winemaker Ester Nin. This is a classic Priorat (70% Garnacha, 30% Carineña; $45): deep red and black fruits, spice and French oak, and a fearless amount of brett with farmyard, earth, and animal aromas. ✪✪✪✪✪

Montsant

The small hill of Priorat is surrounded by Montsant ("Holy Mountain"), which produces similar but less expensive wines. Finca l'Argata are a fairly new producer, but they practise some old-fashioned techniques: they're biodynamic, they crush the grapes by foot, only partially de-stem, mainly use old oak and concrete tanks, and don't fine or filter. The 2012 is 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah ($30). It's quite taut and restrained, with red fruits and liquorice, and surprisingly different from the powerful bombshell of Priorat. ✪✪✪✪

Ribera del Duero

For a century and a half, Ribera del Duero was only known for one producer, Vega de Sicilia. That changed in the 1980s, when a wave of new producers started making wines on the high-altitude slopes above the river Duero, making it one of the most sought-after regions in Spain. Becoming part of the establishment doesn't suit everyone, however, and Alfredo Maestro refuses to work within the DO regulations. A self-taught winemaker since 1998, Maestro feels that contemporary Ribero del Duero producers use too much oak and limit themselves to one grape variety, Tinto Fino (Tempranillo). Instead, he seeks out old vines from traditional local varieties such as Garnacha and Albillo (a white variety), as well as Tinto Fino. He also refuses to use any chemicals in the making of his wine, including even sulphur. In the beautifully-labelled Lovamor ($28), the absence of sulphur is a little too noticeable. Made from one-hundred-year-old Albillo vines, it's a deep golden-yellow colour, heavily oxidative, and tastes much more like a cider than a wine. ✪✪✪ The Castrillo de Duero ($25) is much more successful; from seventy-year-old Tinto Fino vines and aged in neutral oak for 12 months, the wine has a deep, intense, tannic and fruit structure which is classic Ribera del Duero while refusing to call itself so. ✪✪✪✪✪

Castilla y Leon

Many producers in Ribera del Duero and neighbouring Rueda also classify their wines under Castilla y Leon Vino de la Tierra (the IGT level of classification which has more flexible rules). La Fábula Cebreros ($30) - another wine with a beautiful label - is made from one-hundred-year-old Garnacha (which isn't permitted in any of the local DOs) and is a wonderful expression of that grape. It's an intense, powerful, old-school Spanish wine that needs decanting. Leather, mushrooms, and quite a bit of brett eventually give way to dried strawberries, raspberries, and roses. ✪✪✪✪✪

Ribeira Sacra

Many of the wines we tasted are from areas with a long history and old vines, but made from young producers rediscovering the area. Ribeira Sacra ("holy riverbank") is another region undergoing a revival, although it's still small. The major grape is Mencía and again the vines can be up to one hundred years old, grown on steep, stony slopes, battered by rain from the Atlantic. There's an obvious Priorat connection in this revival and Dominio do Bibei's winemaker Javier Domingues has enlisted the help of Priorat producers used to difficult soils and slopes. Lalama ($30) is 90% Mencía, with a handful of Garnacha and other local grape varieties Brancellao and Mouraton. The 2011 is a very attractive wine, with floral, herbal, and red fruit aromas. ✪✪✪✪✪

Monterrei

Near Ribeira Sacra on the Portuguese border, Monterrei is another newly emerging region drawing on old, local varieties. Quinta da Muradella are one of the leading producers of this still small DO, and the Alanda ($33) is a blend of four varieties of different degrees of obscurity. Doña Blanca (which is called Síria in Portugal from where it probably originates) gives intense floral and orange aromas. Treixadura (Trajadura in Portugal) has apple and pear aromas and is best in a blend as it has low acidity. The wonderfully-named Monstruosa is even rarer and was rescued from extinction by Muradella; it has aromas of wild, alpine flowers. Finally, the wine also has Verdello (Verdelho in Portugal and Madeira), which is in the blend for its acidity. The wine itself has extraordinarily intense citrus aromas of oranges and lemons, along with orange blossom. A refreshingly high acidity means that it is a very good food wine - we drank this with a chicken, carrot, leek, and turnip stew. ✪✪✪✪✪

sherry

All of the above wines come from north-central Spain, where either the sea or altitude moderate the climate. Once as far south as Madrid and beyond, the climate is generally too hot for quality wine production. The area around Jerez in hot, dry Andalucia is one historic exception. Close to the Mediterranean, more rain falls than in northern Rioja; most of it is during the winter, with the irrigation system introduced by the Moors over a thousand years ago storing the water for the dry summer months. Sherry is one of the contradictions emblematic of Spain. One of the country's best known wines, it was for the most part created for the British (who still drink almost as much as the Spanish). With its oxidative aromas, it's old-fashioned and out of time; nonetheless the region is now creating some of the most vibrant, evocative, and affordable wines of anywhere in the world. I would say that, because I am a huge sherry fan - regardless, I dare anyone to resist the attractive aromas of lightly baked apples, salt, and almonds of this fino, priced at under $20. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Drinking Aussie Wine in the US

More than any other country, Australian wine transformed the international wine scene with its clean, fruity, and affordable wines which became readily available in the 1980s. The immediacy of the wines, and the marketing that went with it, provided a challenge to traditional wine-producing countries, particularly France, which had previously held an unquestioned dominant position in the global wine industry. In the UK, Australia leads the market with appealingly fruity Shiraz and clean, easy Chardonnay. This has come with a downside, however, as the wines are often viewed as too simple and shallow; fine as an entry-level wine, but not fit for anything more.

It's been a similar story in the US, which is now Australia's biggest market by value (with exports of AU$443m). Australia's position in the US market was led by Yellow Tail ( or [yellow tail] as it's labelled), a high-volume wine designed solely for export. Launched in 2003, its success was instant and huge, but now the very simple and very cheap (around $5) wines are what many American drinkers associate Australian wine with. A further issue is that Australian wines are perceived to be a challenger to domestic wines: fruity, forward, and immediate. On the flip side, one could argue that California's difficulty in penetrating the UK market is down to Australia's more affordable, but similarly fruity, and very popular wines, which again adds to the idea that the US and Australia are inevitable competitors.  

All of this makes finding good Australian wine in the US difficult, a scarcity which makes it further harder to challenge the perception of those wines. The best Australian wines are very different from how they're mostly viewed: often sourced from cooler climates, these wines can have a surprisingly restrained, if still ripe, fruit quality; Shiraz, in particular, can be remarkably similar to its French Syrah counterpart, with an earthy, game, peppery character.

At a recent tasting in a San Francisco art gallery, I sampled a number of wines which emphasised the differences between Australian and Californian wine. It also demonstrated the determination of Australia to promote the very best of its wines and lead consumers away from the [yellow tail] trail. It's Shiraz, Australia's signature grape, rather than Cabernet which has the potential to do so. Cabernet is similarly ripe and fruity, whereas Shiraz expresses more the individuality, character, and history of its regions. 

Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 2 2010 ($90)

Yarra is a region which most immediately challenges perceptions of Australian wine. Just west of Melbourne, the temperatures are cooler than those of Bordeaux and it's become known as a great region for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Pinot Noirs especially are world class, but Yarra Yering also make this great Shiraz (blended unusually with a little bit of Mataro [Mourvèdre], Marsanne, and Viognier), which has a slightly stinky, mature nose, with restrained fruit and subtle spice notes. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

 

Kaesler Old Bastard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2012 ($190)

Australian wine does two things very well: old-vine Shiraz and striking labels. Here's the perfect example: from vines planted in 1893, with a funny cartoon label, and its hard to avoid name - who else would call a $190 wine Old Bastard? Different from the Yering Dry Red because it's defiantly Australian, with ripe, juicy, yet very pure fruits, but it's again peppery (a quality more associated with cooler climate Shiraz) and has a firm tannic structure which holds the fruity nature of the wine together. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Yangarra Estate Ironheart Shiraz McLaren Vale 2013 ($100)

What I like about Australian Shiraz is how herbal the wines can be, and this is a good example with its mint and eucalyptus aromas. The fruits are as ripe as one would expect from Australia but with gripping tannins. And as with many of Australia's best regions, the acidity is high and lively enough to lift the wine. ✪✪✪✪✪

Shiraz, of course, is not the only quality aspect of Australian wine. The whites, particularly Chardonnay, are fragrant and fruity but with an acidity which lightens the wines (though I do suspect Australian whites are too often acidified); and Riesling can be stunning (Clare Valley's Grosset are a famous and reputable producer). The sweet wines, often called Stickies, are also some of the most individual wines in the world, and I'll be writing about them in another blog. But it's the high-quality Shiraz that will likely break Australian wine into the high-end US market, as it's familiarly fruity but with herbal earth aromas not often found in California's best wines. 

Washington's Syrah

The last time I wrote about Washington, I concluded that it was best for the state's winemakers to focus on the many varied AVAs to promote their wines rather than seeking a signature grape variety. I still think that's true; from cool, wet Columbia Gorge, to small, warm, and extraordinarily high quality Red Mountain, to the geologically distinct Rocks District, Washington - and Oregon, which shares some of the AVAs - offer a diverse range of climates, soils, and geography to produce wines that reflect, often wonderfully, their location. Trying to focus solely on one variety as an expression of Washington takes away from that local sense of place.

Having said that, there is one grape variety which distinguishes Washington from other winemaking regions in the US and which may help concentrate drinkers' opinion of the wines. Syrah is grown in California, but it is not a grape that winemakers have taken to and nor have consumers. Cooler Sonoma Coast has the potential to produce peppery Syrah, but these are still hard to find. Even Paso Robles, which excels in Rhône blends, takes better to Grenache and Mourvèdre than it does to Syrah, which I find is often best as part of a blend (as in the southern Rhône, where on its own it can become too chocolatey). This lack of competition gives Washington an opportunity to stake its claim as the US's premium Syrah producer.

I just attended a tasting of Washington wine in San Francisco, which confirmed just how exciting and appealing the wines are overall. The Cabernet Sauvignons are lighter and less aggressive than Napa's; the Viogniers are attractive and maintain their acidity; but it was the Syrahs that really stood out, particularly from Walla Walla and its sub-AVA The Rocks District, but also from Red Mountain. What I particularly liked about the range of Syrahs I tried was the variety, from spicy to fruity to tannic, sometimes immediate and fresh, other times closed and demanding further time in the bottle. This in part depends on the ambitions of the winery, but it's also about location. The Rocks District produces complex, structured, individual wines, with restrained fruit and a herbal, spicy backdrop; the surrounding Walla Walla AVA wines are a little more forward; while Red Mountain's wines have wonderful concentration, with a floral, perfumed nose coming from the higher slopes.

standout wines

Betz Family Boushey Vineyard La Serenne Syrah 2013 ($55)

Grower Dick Boushey was one of the first to plant Syrah in Washington; Washington writer Paul Gregutt describes the Syrah wines from the Yakima vineyard as having "a compelling underlayer of game, toasted almond, herb and earth that is distinctive and unique." This Syrah is a perfect example of that description, with pepper, nuts, chocolate, red and black fruits, and slightly dusty tannins. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Buty Rockgarden Estate Redivivia of the Stones 2012 ($60)

An unusual wine, in that it's blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. There's also no new oak used to age the wine, showing that Syrah from The Rocks District is capable of expressing its own qualities without the addition of oak flavours. An attractive floral nose, with blackberries, and ripe tannins, and a dark, smoky intensity coming from the other two grapes in the blend. ✪✪✪✪✪

Force Majeure Syrah 2013 ($70)

This may be my favourite Washington producer at the moment: a gorgeous Viognier and a supple Cabernet come from their vineyards on Red Mountain, as well as their stunning Syrah. The vines are planted on steep slopes on the top of the mountain, retaining acidity and producing ripe but complex fruit. It's a vibrant, compelling wine that's only going to get better and better with time, as its drying tannins soften to reveal attractive, integrated black fruits.  ✪✪✪✪✪✪

Reynvaan In the Hills Syrah 2014 ($70)

Another young winery - founded in just 2008 - this wine was a revelation. Very herbal, with pronounced tarragon aromas, and peppery, with ripe black fruits. Extremely attractive right now at a young age, it has enough acidity, tannin, and fruit to develop over a long period. ✪✪✪✪✪✪

There are plenty of great wines being made from other varieties - Cabernet Franc (Andrew Will's Champoux Vineyard Bordeaux Blend 2011 is 64% and irresistible), Grenache (Brady Cellars' 2013 has characteristic liquorice, raspberry qualities), and Rhône blends (Avennia's Justine is spicy and gripping) - but Syrah perhaps demonstrates most consistently the best of what Washington has to offer: attractive but not overripe fruits, with firm, gripping, structured tannins, and an invigorating acidity, all representing the particular area the wine comes from. 

Pommard

in Pommard last April

Pommard is a beautiful village, small with a church dominating the main square. Just south of the important wine town Beaune, Pommard finishes before it's even begun, the vineyards merging into Volnay's. Very much in Chardonnay territory, Pommard and Volnay are the two major villages of the Côte de Beaune that produce only red wine. Its reputation goes back hundreds of years, not least because, unlike other lighter, more delicate wines of Burgundy, its wines were able to survive the journey to England. Today, Pommard is still known for producing powerful, relatively tannic wines.

the terroir

Nowhere is more associated with terroir than Burgundy, the vineyards producing subtly different wines as they stretch from village to village. This is particularly true of Pommard, which, despite being so small (just 320ha of plantings), has 28 different climats leading, in the words of local winemaker Aubert Lefas of Domaine Lejeune, to 28 different wines. Vineyards' different aspects, altitude, and soils cause such a variety of terroir. The altitude of vineyards ranges from 250 to 330m; although most of the best Côte d'Or vineyards are halfway up the slope, some of Pommard's, such as Les Epenots in the northern part of the village, are lower down due to particularly shallow topsoils. These result in lighter expressions of Pommard, while vineyards in the southern part are higher up and are iron-rich, leading to deep coloured, more powerful wines.

Les Croix Noires vineyard with Les Chaponnières on the other side of the road and Les Rugiens behind it

There are currently no Grand Cru vineyards in Pommard, due to disagreement among local winemakers when the appellation was created in 1936. Just over half of Pommard is Premier Cru (116ha); two of those vineyards, Les Epenots and Les Rugiens (which means red-coloured because of the iron in the soil), have applied for Grand Cru status which will take another ten to fifteen years to achieve.

the style

Described by Victor Hugo as a fight between night and day (C'est le combat du jour et de la nuit), it is hard to generalise about the taste of Pommard. Each vineyard has its own style, ranging from light and elegant to rich, tannic, and powerful - complicated further by the style of each producer. Due to the wines' tannins, Pommard is considered one of the most ageworthy of Burgundy's appellations. It's also 20-30% cheaper than Gevrey-Chambertin, one of Burgundy's most famous villages, and therefore well worth investing in.

the tasting

Domaine Maillard Père et Fils La Chanière 2012

This was the fruitiest and easiest drinking of the wines I tasted, with lots of ripe, fresh red berry aromas of raspberry and strawberry, as well as liquorice, vanilla, and paprika, with surprisingly ripe tannins on the palate. Its fruity, forward nature made it very popular with the Americans I was tasting it with. ✪✪✪✪

Domaine Parigot Les Riottes 2012

From the bottom of the slope rather than the top, this provided quite a contrast with the first wine. A deeper colour, with a meaty, smoky nose, firm tannins giving the wine stucture, and concentrated aromas of cherries and blackberries. ✪✪✪✪✪

Maison Louis Jadot Clos de la Commaraine Premier Cru 2011

The first two village wines were from the fruity, ripe vintage of 2012, while three of the Premier Cru wines were from the more difficult 2011 which produced tannic, less concentrated wines. This Premier Cru (one of Thomas Jefferson's favourites) from major producer Louis Jadot was a little disappointing, with blackcurrants and figs and rather drying tannins, but the next two wines demonstrated that 2011 is indeed capable of quality wines. ✪✪✪✪

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Les Jarolières Premier Cru 2011

Perhaps the highlight of the tasting, from Les Jarolières Premier Cru on the border with Volnay. From 65-year-old vines inherited from Boillot's grandparents, the wine had wonderfully pure, precise fruit aromas of raspberry, red plum, blackcurrant, and blackberry, with a bitter, smoky spiciness, and firm tannins. The wine was aged in 50% new French oak, which could have dominated, but Boillot does not practise pumping over or punching down during maceration in order not to extract too much tannin, resulting in a very balanced wine. ✪✪✪✪✪

Maison Joseph Drouhin Les Rugiens Premier Cru 2011

A wine which perhaps showcased the winemaker Véronique Drouhin's sensibilities as much as the highly-regarded, iron-rich vineyard. Véronique Drouhin is a winemaker who aims for finesse and elegance in her wines, and with just 20% new French oak this was a reserved, restrained wine. However, the aromas were extremely concentrated, with fine, ripe, integrated red fruit aromas, and dried roses and dried herbs such as tarrogon giving the wine a subtle depth. ✪✪✪✪✪

Domaine Lejeune Les Argillières Premier Cru 2008 

Also called En Largillière (referring to its clay soils), this is an example of how Pommard can age. Quite restrained on the nose with developing aromas of mushrooms, undergrowth, and dried herbs, it was on the palate that the expressive, subtly powerful aromas shone. The tannins were drying and structured, with refreshing acidity, and a long finish with raspberries and cherry stones. Fermented on whole clusters with no destemming, this was Pommard at its most individual yet characteristic: elegance and power combined. ✪✪✪✪✪