Wax Seals/Bordeaux Amarone

You don't see them that often, thank goodness, and when you do it's usually those pesky traditionalists in Burgundy (especially with Crème de Cassis). They're a nightmare to open, particularly if no one's told you how to do it properly. When I've had the misfortune to encounter them, I've patiently hacked away before recoursing to violence. I'm talking about bottles of wine sealed with wax, a traditional way of ensuring that the bottle has not been tampered with. Completely pointless now, but, because they're traditional and they do look good, still used.

@bleuettextiles and I inadvertently ordered such a bottle the other night in a restaurant that shall remain nameless. The server showed us the wine and proceeded to start opening it. Two minutes later, I looked to see why she hadn't opened it yet and there she was, patiently hacking at the wax. As politely as I could, I told her the best way to open it was to pour some hot water over the wax to soften it. She shook her head, "I got it open this way last time," and continued hacking away. A few minutes later, another server came over to manfully show her how it was done. And proceeded to hack away, just as she had been doing. This time it was the turn of my sister to suggest pouring hot water over the seal. He shook his head, "I got it open this way last time." It took fifteen minutes for the wine to get opened and resulted in a tray full of bloody scraps of wax.

after the wax had fallen

I don't know how sommeliers are trained to open these bottles, but pouring hot water over the wine is quick and effective, and it can be done away from the table before presenting it. Another more aesthetically pleasing method is to heat the wax under a candle. Either way, once the wax has softened you can plunge the corkscrew through the wax into the cork and suddenly you have an open bottle without any mess.

I have two messages: to winemakers, please don't seal your wines with wax, and to waiters, listening to your customers can sometimes make your life easier.

the wine

Le Joker de Couronneau 2009 (15.5%)
After all that, and despite the bits of wax floating in my glass, the wine was sensational. We chose it for its uniqueness: a Bordeaux made in the style of an Amarone with, it turned out, just 800 bottles made. Inspired by "a chance tasting of some Italian Amarone," it's a smooth, supple wine packed with rich flavours. 100% Merlot, the wine had all the dried fruits (prunes and raisins) one would expect from an Amarone, but with the fresh ripe fruits (blackcurrants) from the grape, plus Bordeaux's characteristic oak, tobacco, and smoke. The only criticism I have of the wine is that damned wax seal.

worth the wait