Petite Sirah

Like Zinfandel, Petite Sirah is a Californian grape known for producing high-alcohol, fruity, extremely full-bodied wines. Again like Zinfandel, it's quite misunderstood: its origins are often confused, which leads to it not always been used correctly. It's taken me some time to appreciate the grape, but I feel serious, worthwhile versions are finally coming out of California.

the grape

Petite Sirah is known by that name in California, as well as Mexico and Argentina. It's been grown there since the nineteenth century, which is where the confusion starts. It was mostly grown as part of 'field blends' - vineyards where many grape varieties are grown - contributing tannins, fruit, and alcohol to that blend. It was also mostly grown by Italian immigrants for table wine, even though the grape has no Italian background. These field blends, based on traditional Italian practices of growing whatever was in the field, meant that no one really knew what was going into the wine. Even now, when much more is understood about the grape, 10% of grapes called Petite Sirah are something entirely different.

The name Petite Sirah also causes confusion. Introduced into California as Syrah, its name comes from its smaller berries. Petite Sirah is in actual fact a nineteenth-century French crossing between Syrah and Peloursin by a Dr. Durif. This crossing never took off in France where it is little grown; it is, however, grown in Australia where it is correctly called Durif after its maker. These wines are even bigger, fuller, and more intense than Shiraz, and provide a dark, bitter alternative to Australia's most famous export.

In California, Petite Sirah is still most often seen in blends. It may not seem apparent that Californian wines require more oomph and alcohol, but that's what Petite Sirah provides. Some wineries produce 100% Petite Sirah wines; my first impressions on tasting these were that they were far too big, jammy, and unsubtle. However, I have been increasingly impressed by some of the single-varietal wines I have tasted: big and bold, yes, but underpinned with complex bitter aromas quite different from other wines.

the wines

Chateau Montelena Petite Sirah 2009 14.5% ($35)

I visited Montelena last August and this was my first taste of a Californian 100% Petite Sirah. As big and aggressive as it was, I came away impressed by its substantial, uncompromising depth. With dark chocolate, black fruits, vanilla, and very chewy tannins, this is a wine that does not shy away.

Seghesio Il Cinghiale Petite Sirah 2010 14.8% ($38)

Seghesio are the ultimate example of an Italian-Californian winery. Established in the 1890s by an Italian immigrant, they still specialise in Italian varieties. Their flagship Zinfandel features around 10% Petite Sirah (Home Ranch Zinfandel, $58), and they make this appropriately named single-varietal (Il Cinghiale means wild boar). This is a big wine, spicy with chewy tannins and flavours of cocoa, blueberries, and black cherries. Even though Petite Sirah's origins are French, this wine feels like the wild south of Italy.

Nichelini Petite Sirah 2010 14.5% ($43)

Another producer with Italian origins dating back to the nineteenth century - Nichelini managed to work through Prohibition and are the Napa Valley's oldest continual winery. 2010 was a year with a hot spike but this Petite Sirah is more balanced compared to the Zinfandel (16.1%). Vibrant black fruits (blackberries, cherries, plums), with a spicy bitter chocolate and cocoa mouth.

m2 Petite Sirah 2009 14.9% ($33)

I picked this up in a farm shop on the Central Coast Delta near Lodi, without knowing much about it beyond its attractive label. It's from Clarksburg, a small AVA that's known mostly for its Chenin Blanc. The result is a seriously impressive wine, broad black fruits given structure by a well-integrated oakiness. I drank this with a spaghetti dish at home, further evidence of Petite Sirah's peculiar Italian nature.

Dutch Henry Petite Sirah 2008 ($60)

"Dutch Henry" was a nineteenth-century prospector and highwayman, giving his name to a canyon that lies behind this Calistoga winery that has to be visited just to meet the Airedale terriers. This Petite Sirah has big, ripe, almost jammy fruits, chocolate and coffee, but with a good structure, gripping tannins, and a grainy, oaky undertow. An impressive wine, although expensive at $60.

Quixote Petite Syrah (sic) 2002 14.4% ($110)

In the heart of Napa Valley is one of its most architecturally interesting wineries. It's also one that has always concentrated on Petite Sirah, producing serious, intense, ageworthy expressions of the grape that have fully convinced me of its potential. The 2002 is ageing extremely well: the nose is somewhat stinky, with hints of Brett, but smoky and earthy too. The palate is alive and complex, with plenty of black fruits and Petite Sirah's characteristic coffee and cocoa flavours. The acidity is still lively, the wine dark and spicy.

Looking back at my tasting notes for the Petite Sirahs I have encountered since August, the recurring words are "big," "chewy," and "cocoa." Expect big tannins, high alcohol, and unavoidable fruits; once you appreciate these elements, however, you understand its ageability, power, and depth. Not wines to be messed with, nor dismissed casually.