Pliny the Younger

It's 9:30 in the morning and I'm at the back of a queue that snakes around the block. A couple in front of me have flown in from Ohio, two gentlemen who join the queue a few seconds later have made the three-hour drive from Modesto. The person at the front arrived at 2; a woman far in front of me is still lying in her sleeping bag. It's 9:30am, and we're queuing to get into a pub that doesn't open until 11:00.

the beer geeks line up

why the hell am I here?

Every February, Americans make the pilgrimage from all around the country to Russian River Brewing in Santa Rosa to get a taste of Pliny the Younger. This is a beer that has taken on mythical status among beer geeks; brewed once a year by the US's leading craft brewery, it's released for a two-week period only, available solely in kegs. It's distributed to a few select bars, who sell out almost immediately. A few weeks ago, I was in an excellent bar called Lucky 13 in Alameda outside San Francisco. The barmaid described how last year they opened one of their two allocated kegs early on a Monday evening. Despite limiting each customer to one glass, the keg was finished within 36 minutes.

Pliny the Younger is a "Triple IPA," a style of beer which the brewery themselves say is very difficult to make, hence the limited production. Given the outstanding quality of Russian River's other beers, I had to have a taste of this almost unattainable beer.

"this is when I begin to question my better judgement"

Such is the demand for Pliny the Younger, I was prepared to have to wait a little while before I could my hands on a glass of the beer. I had no idea just how long I would have to wait, however.

At 10:30, we move forward about a hundred metres - but only because the people at the front have packed up their chairs in readiness to enter the pub. At 11, when the pub opens, we move forward another hundred metres till we can even see the entrance in the dim distance. Then, standstill. By 12:30, we have probably moved another 20 metres. A representative comes round to tell us that there will be another three to four hour wait, but any "parties of one" can make their way forward. It is at this point I first contemplate ditching my two friends I've come with; instead, another lone gentleman rather shamefacedly walks past the waiting would-be drinkers.

Every so often, we move a few paces forward, everyone packing up their chairs and then reopening them a paving stone further on. At some point, Aly the Traveling Marimba Busker appears. I have seen her outside Russian River before, usually playing to an audience of no one, but today she has a captive crowd. She has an impressive repertoire of classic hits converted to the joys of the marimba, half-singing along as she plays. Most memorable is her rendition of "Bohemian Rhapsody," which like the song itself strays a dangerous line between comedy and genius. She plays all afternoon.

Between 2 and 3, things get moving - drinkers are limited to a three-hour stay, as well as three half pints of Pliny. By 3:30, we are stood next to the outdoor terrace, dryly watching other drinkers drain their small glasses of Pliny, unembarrassed by our salivating gaze. The marimba chimes as we watch drinks being served. It is another hour before we are allowed in: a full seven hours after we started queuing.

what did it taste like?

It's very bitter with a long hoppy dry finish. There's a real depth to the beer, with tropical fruits of pineapple and mango and a tart grapefruit backbone. The hops provide aromas of pine nuts and bitter almonds. The alcoholic sweetness (it's 10.25%) gives it a caramel maltiness that takes away from the beer's dry bitterness and also rounds out the body and structure. At the end, there are subtle and surprising spices of cumin and curry.

so happy, close to delirium

was it worth the wait?

Absolutely not: nothing is worth waiting seven hours for. The beer is extremely good - complex, balanced (despite the high alcohol), and refreshing - but it's impossible to justify the extremes people will go to in order to taste this beer. I don't regret the experience, but I doubt I'll be queuing up all day again next year.

There's little question Russian River Brewing make the best beers in the US, but they do need to rethink their game. They refuse to expand production beyond their annual 3,000 barrels, a commitment to quality over quantity I admire. They also refuse to move to larger premises more able to accommodate the nationwide legion of fans. Like the brewery, Pliny the Younger has become a victim of its success and Russian River need to do something about it: if you're going to release a beer just once a year to such high demand, you need to come up with a way of providing it that doesn't involve people sleeping on the streets.