Rhône Rangers

In the 1980s, a small band of Californian producers teamed together to form the Rhône Rangers to promote wines made from varieties, such as Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier, grown in that great French region. Then in 1989, the Perrin family, who own Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, bought property in Paso Robles, together with their US importer Robert Haas. While waiting to establish the Tablas Creek winery, they imported cuttings directly from their property in the southern Rhône, making available for the first time other quality Rhône varieties such as Mourvèdre and Counoise as well as whites like Grenache Blanc.

The popularity of these wines is still small, but production and quality is rising. Paso Robles, with its warm climate and limestone soils, has emerged as the epicentre of Rhône styles of wine. It's not the only region though: Santa Ynez Valley further south makes peppery Syrah; the Sierra Foothills, hotter and higher, have great potential for wines from Mourvèdre; and, beyond California, Washington, with its more continental climate, also makes great wine from Rhône varieties.

At a Rhône Rangers event in San Francisco, I tasted a number of wines, some blends, some from famous varieties, and some from little-known varieties. Here are some of the highlights.

wines and their makers

Tablas Creek Terret Noir 2015 ($35)

There are 18 different varieties allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, some of them rarely used and if so only for blending. As Tablas Creek have access to cuttings of all the Châteauneuf grapes, they have the chance to experiment with them and learn what the wines from the more obscure varieties actually taste like. They have just 0.2ha of Terret Noir, which they plan to use for blending but they've also made a varietal bottling to share the taste of this obscure variety. The grape has big berries and dark skins, yet, conversely, it produces a very pale coloured wine reminsicent of Nebbiolo. The wine is floral, herbal, and spicy, with red fruits and really dry tannins (again not dissimilar to Nebbiolo). It would make a fantastic pairing with a wide range of food (duck, game, meat, roast veg) and I hope Tablas Creek continue to make wine from the variety. ✪✪✪✪✪

On a side note, two people at the tasting described the tannins of the Terret Noir as "tacky." I've never heard this word used to describe tannins and it was equally confusing to Tablas Creek winemaker Neil Collins who said "that doesn't sound very pleasant." A dictionary has the following definition: "(of glue, paint, or other substances) not fully dry and retaining a slightly sticky feel: the paint was still tacky." So I suppose describing the dry tannins of the Terret Noir as tacky was accurate, but, given it usually refers to something that's cheap and low-quality, it's still not a word I'll be using.

Adelaida Vineyards Picpoul Blanc 2015 ($35)

Picpoul is allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, although most white wines from there are blends of other varieties. Further west, Picpoul is the grape variety for Picpoul de Pinet on the Languedoc coast, one of the few French appellations that contains the name of the grape (other areas now technically have to spell it Piquepoul). The wines there are light, fresh, and acidic - Picpoul literally means "lip-stinger." Picpoul wines being made in Paso Robles are quite different, heavier and fuller-bodied, but still with a refreshing acidity - Adelaida's winemaker, Jeremy Weintraub, said the wine had over 9g/L of total acidity, which is remarkable in such a warm wine region. Adelaida's Picpoul Blanc was a great example of a balance between the rich ripeness coming from the warm climate of Paso Robles and the natural acidity of the grape. ✪✪✪✪✪

Qupé Roussanne 2012 ($30)

Under Bob Lindqvist, Qupé were one of the original Rhône Rangers. They're based in Santa Maria, making wines from Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and, most notably, Roussanne and Marsanne. These are two of the great white grapes of the Rhône, but it's rare to see them elsewhere. Marsanne, which has a waxy, oily texture, is the base of white Hermitage in the northern Rhône, while Roussanne, which has more aromas and acidity, is at the heart of white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Roussanne is my favourite because of the rich aromatics, acidity, and the easy way it takes to oak ageing. Both these grapes also age wonderfully well in bottle, maintaining their structure while developing mature, complex aromas: this wine was from 2012 and still felt young and fresh. ✪✪✪✪

Mourvèdre geek: where are the accents?

Seven Oxen Mourvèdre 2014 ($42)

In contrast to Qupé, Seven Oxen is a new project and I tasted three of their wines from the 2014 vintage, just their second. Their winemaker is Bastien Leduc from south-west France, so he's used to working in the warm climate of Paso Robles. Because of the climate, late-ripening Mourvèdre works perfectly in Paso, the hot summer and warm autumn getting the grape gradually ripe. There were plenty of good examples at the Rhône Rangers tasting; Seven Oxen's Mourvèdre stood out with rich, ripe black fruit, warm mouthfeel, and dry (not tacky) tannins. ✪✪✪✪✪

Wrath Ex Anima Syrah ($25)

Oak abounds in California, so it's always refreshing to taste wines that have seen no new oak. There were quite a few wineries emphasising the lack of oak in the wines, so maybe the tide is turning. Wrath are based in Monterey, an area that has history with Rhône varieties (mainly because of Bonny Doon, another of the original Rhône Rangers). This Syrah is only aged in old oak, so the purity of the fruit really shines through. It also makes it easier to drink young, but there are plenty of complex black fruit and spice aromas. Even better, the lack of oak cuts down on the price. ✪✪✪✪

A lot of these Rhône Rangers are beginning to produce single-varietal wines (which is what I've focused on here) as a means of attracting consumer interest. Don't forget the blends, because that's what the Rhône itself excels in, but if these single-varietal wines can get people drinking wines from the wonderful range of varieties it can only be a good thing. And the love for these styles of wines is definitely spreading: I got to taste for the first time wines from Arizona! Grown at 1,700m altitude just an hour from the Mexican border, the Viognier and two Grenache wines I tasted were pretty good. If there's a future in Arizona for winemaking, maybe it will come from the Rhône...

Rune wines from Arizona, with labels by a local graphic artist

The Rhône

Driving down France from the cold, grey, almost English north through the gradually brighter Burgundy, all of the sudden the weather and the country change after Lyon. The sun is bright, constant, and warm; the land is vast and dramatic. You can sense that northern Europe has been left behind for good, and that the glamour of the Mediterranean is not too far away. These changes are reflected in the wines, which get bigger, bolder, and warmer as the Rhône, one of France's great rivers, winds it way down from Lyon to Avignon, city of Popes, and Arles, where van Gogh somehow lost an ear.

the regions

from winefolly.com

The Rhône is divided into four different wine-producing areas, the most significant of which are the northern and southern. The climate of the northern Rhône is still moderate, only just warm enough for Syrah to ripen fully. The south is hot, the sun baking the galet stones which retain heat in the cool nights. 

northern Rhône

This is France at its most dramatic and unforgettable, the grand river bending back and forth as huge, steep slopes rise from its banks. These slopes are home to some of the most famous, and expensive, vineyards in the world, including Côte Rôtie ("roasted slope") and Hermitage. These south-facing slopes allow enough sun and heat to hit them for Syrah to grow. The Syrah here is far removed from the Shiraz of Australia: meaty and gamey, with a restrained fruitness and several years of oak ageing, designed to be drunk at least five years after the vintage, and often much more.

There are also three appellations dedicated to white wine. Condrieu, next to Côte Rôtie in the north of the area, is all Viognier, heady, aromatic, and arguably overpriced. Within the appellation is another, France's smallest, called Château Grillet after its only producer. Right at the other end of the region is St-Péray, a small appellation dedicated to Marsanne and Roussanne, my two favourite white Rhône grapes.

Hermitage

southern Rhône

After a small break along the river where nothing much happens in wine terms (apart from sparkling wine production in Die, just east of the Rhône), the climate becomes startlingly hot and Mediterranean. A huge variety of wines are made in the southern Rhône, including the delicate fortified wines of Beaumes-de-Venise, but this area of France is known for its high-alcohol red blends based on Grenache.

The most famous appellation is without doubt Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so called because nearby Avignon was the home for the Papacy in the 1300s. Châteauneuf was the very first appellation to be created in France in order to counteract fraud, in 1923. The rules are quite broad - 18 different grapes are allowed for the production of both red and white wine - and standards have risen and fallen. There has also been a trend, led by demand in the American market, for high alcohol wines aged in lots of new oak, which can be too much for the more delicate palate.

the galets of Châteauneuf-du-Pape

More consistent, less fashionable, and better value is neighbouring Gigondas, which is very similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape but more reserved. Next door to Gigondas is Vacqueryas, a more rustic, less hygienic, but appealing version of its two neighbours.

At the bottom end of the scale is Côtes du Rhône, a large area which takes in 42,000ha of land. The wines, often made using some carbonic maceration, are simple, straightforward, and fruity, but can offer good value at the entry level. The next level up is Côtes du Rhône-Villages, wine made in one of twenty villages that have the potential to become their own appellation one day. These wines can offer a very good value alternative to the more famous appellations.

There are plenty of other appellations in the area, including the interesting Costières de Nîmes on the western side of the Rhône, all offering local variants on the constant theme: wines with red fruit, highish alcohol, dusty tannins, a meaty depth, and some ageing potential. Not surprisingly, they pair well with the local food: rich, hearty, meaty dishes.

Far less common (2% of the Côtes du Rhône appellation; 7% of Châteauneuf-du-Pape) are whites. I love the rich, creamy, nutty textures of these wines, made from any combination of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, and the wonderfully named Bourboulenc. 

The Rhône also has an appellation solely for rosé, Tavel, which serves as a pink equivalent to Châteauneuf-du-Pape (where rosé is not allowed): full-bodied, fruity, and earthy. A distinguished appellation, but not one that is to everyone's taste.

the wines

Guigal Condrieu 2012 ($70)

From Côte Rôtie and Condrieu's most famous producer, this is a wine of beautiful floral and stone fruit aromas. The wine has also seen some oak giving it a light smokiness, and it has a dry, mineral finish. I personally thought this wine was outstanding, but the overall, and quite harsh, conclusion of the Diploma group I tasted this wine with was that its fruits lacked concentration and the finish wasn't long enough. It's hard to imagine a wine more delightfully aromatic than this, though I do prefer the rounder, creamier wines made from Roussanne and Marsanne elsewhere in the Rhône.  

Cave de Tavel Lauzeraies Rosé 2012 ($14)

Our Diploma tutor confessed that he wasn't a huge fan of the rosés of Tavel, but nevertheless it's a style which he have to appreciate and understand. Tavel produces full-bodied rosés far removed from both the sweetish blush wines of California and the pale rosés of nearby Provence. This wine had lots of red fruits which were a little too candied and juicy watermelon, together with a wet earthy feel. Full and fruity, but lacking complexity.

Château du Montfaucon Côtes du Rhône 2013 ($12)

This was a good, fruity example of Côtes du Rhône at an extremely reasonable price. No oak and quite simple, this is nevertheless a good entry level wine. The producer is from Lirac, one of the Rhône's many appellations.

Clos St. Jean Châteaufneuf-du-Pape 2011 ($35)

Tasting this wine with a group of American students was interesting. These students described the wine as well integrated and balanced; in contrast, I found the whopping 16% level of alcohol burning and out of control. The only non-fortified wines that reach this level of alcohol are Amarone and Zinfandel. The tannins weren't ripe or the fruit jammy enough to be a Zinfandel, and it was much closer to a modern, powerful Amarone, with its dry, dusty tannins and lots of new oak to try and integrate the excessive sugar of the fruits. If I wanted to make a wine with this high alcohol, I'd just make it fortified - at least then there'd be greater control over the nature of the alcohol.

Guigal Brune et Blonde Côte Rôtie 2010 ($70)

Back to the opposite end, and style, of the Rhône with another wine from Guigal. This is a blend of Côte Rôtie's two famous slopes; wines from the 'Blonde' slope are softer and more likely to be blended with Viognier (there was 4% Viognier in this wine), while those from the 'Brune' are firmer and age longer. I loved this wine, its fruits restrained and use of oak just about in balance. The subtle flavours slowly drew out, a savoury gameiness behind the black fruits and slightly coarse, drying tannins. This is still a young wine, however, the flavours needing plenty of time to develop and mature. One student complained that the finish wasn't long enough, but the lingering toasty, pepper finish is exactly what Syrah from a moderate climate should taste like.

Tasting these wines from the Rhône left me thirsty for more, and I had a blind tasting of three other wines to hone my Rhône recognition skills further.

Prat Sura Vacqueryas 2012 ($28)

The more rustic element of Vacqueryas was clear in this wine, with an earthy, homely appeal. The tannins were proper Rhône, dry, gripping, and teeth-staining, but with good red fruits to flesh the wine out. In true French mode, I later drank this with steak - a perfect match.

Torbreck Cuvée Juveniles Barossa 2011 ($20)

GSM is not a term used in France, but it refers to New World Rhône blends featuring Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The latter doesn't get used much in the Rhône, more so in Provence and Spain (where it's called Monastrell), as well as in California and Australia (where it's called Mataro). This Australian GSM is surprisingly herbal, but its main difference from actual Rhône wines is that the fruits and tannins are much riper. There is enough structure to balance out those ripe fruits: one of those Australian wines that reveals unexpected layers with each taste.

Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence ($20)

Les Baux is one of my favourite villages in Provence, a stony hilltop village with small chapels and shops to dip into to escape the beating sun. It also produces great wine, an appellation created in the early 1990s to incorporate Cabernet Sauvignon - a grape that traditionalists believed shouldn't flourish in the heat of the Provençal sun. This is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet, and Carignan, but falls a bit short. The nose is disappointing and medicinal; the mouth, however, has good, dry tannins and red and black fruit, but the finish fades too quickly.

The most important thing to consider when tasting Rhône wines is the tannins. If the wines come from the Rhône rather than the New World, there is going to be a dry dustiness to the tannins, especially in the hotter south. These tannins give the wine great structure, making them perfect with robust food dishes. There is also a romanticism to the wines of the Rhône which I can't avoid falling for, even in the formal educational settings of a WSET Diploma course. The sunshine, the lifestyle, the river are all reflected in the wines: this is a place which gives and then gives some more.